Victorian Emerald and Diamond Bangle

A superb Victorian bangle dating to around 1880 and crafted in Vienna during the Austro Hungarian Empire. This elegant hinged bracelet is set with a beautifully graduated line of vibrant emeralds alternating with bright old European cut diamonds, arranged within a delicate open gallery that allows each stone to display its full brilliance. The emeralds have an exceptional, vivid colour that strongly suggests Colombian origin, while the diamonds show the lively fire characteristic of nineteenth century cutting.

An extraordinary and rarely encountered technical feature is hidden on the underside of the bangle. A small flower motif, integrated into the goldwork, acts as a screw; when loosened, it releases the entire gem set upper element of the bracelet. This detachable design reflects the ingenuity of Viennese jewellers who often created transformable jewels. In this case, however, no brooch fitting accompanies the piece, so while the gem section can indeed be removed, it cannot be worn independently as a brooch without an additional mount being sourced or made.

The gemstones total approximately 1.56 carats of emeralds and 1.12 carats of old European cut diamonds. The bangle weighs 14 grams and has a refined, slim profile that sits gracefully on the wrist. Inside are Austrian hallmarks including the fox head assay mark for 14K gold used between 1872 and 1922, the Vienna city mark and the maker’s initials SK.

Condition is superb. Under loupe magnification one emerald at the outer edge shows a minute age related chip, otherwise the piece is near perfect. A safety chain was once present but has been removed; the clasp remains strong and fully secure. A fine and technically fascinating example of late nineteenth century Viennese craftsmanship.